Cover -- Contents -- List of Illustrations -- List of Contributors -- Acknowledgments -- Introduction -- SECTION ONE COLOR AND SOLIDARITY -- 1 Color as Theme in the Ebony Fashion Fair -- 2 Purity and parity: the white dress of the suffrage movement in early twentieth-century britain -- 3 Birds of the Same "color" flock together: color as expression of identity and solidarity in aso-ebi cloth of the yoruba -- 4 contradictory colors: tricolor in vichy france's fashion culture -- SECTION TWO COLOR ANDPOWER -- 5 Dress and color at the thai court -- 6 "gold and silver by night." queen alexandra: a life in color -- 7 Lord boston's court uniform: a story of color, politics, and the psychology of belonging -- 8 Yellow is the New Red, or Clothing the Recession and How the Shade of Shame Became Chic -- SECTION THREE COLOR ANDINNOVATION -- 9 Color before technicolor: colorized fashion films of the silent era -- 10 Color as Concept: From international klein blue to viktor &amp -- rolf's "bluescreen" -- 11 tainted love: oscar wilde's toxic green carnation, queerness, and chromophobia -- 12 Starlit skies blue versus durindone blue -- SECTION FOUR COLOR ANDDESIRE -- 13 Rough wolves in the sheepcote: the meanings of fashionable color, 1900-1914 -- 14 "le noir étant la dominante de notre vêture ...": the many meanings of the color black in postwar paris -- 15 British scarlet broadcloth, the perfect red in eastern africa, c.1820-1885 -- 16 Lives lived: An archaeology of faded indigo -- Index.

Color speaks a powerful cultural language, conveying political, sexual, and economic messages that, throughout history, have revealed how we relate to ourselves and our world. This ground-breaking compilation is the first to investigate how color in fashionable and ceremonial dress has played a significant social role, indicating acceptance and exclusion, convention and subversion.From the use of white in pioneering feminism to the penchant for black in post-war France, and from mystical scarlet broadcloth to the horrors of arsenic-laden green fashion, this publication demonstrates that color in dress is as mutable, nuanced, and varied as color itself. Divided into four thematic parts - solidarity, power, innovation, and desire - each section highlights the often violent, emotional histories of color in dress across geographical, temporal and cultural boundaries. Underlying today's relaxed attitude to color lies a chromatic complexity that speaks of wars, migrations and economics. While acknowledging the importance that technology has played in the development of new dyes, the chapters explore color as a catalyst for technical innovation that continues to inspire designers, artists, and performers. Bringing together cutting-edge contributions from leading scholars, it is essential reading for academics of fashion, textiles, design, cultural studies and art history.

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Electronic reproduction. Ann Arbor, Michigan : ProQuest Ebook Central, 2021. Available via World Wide Web. Access may be limited to ProQuest Ebook Central affiliated libraries.